Based on: Kyo's CBeam Sphinx
Print Area: 365mm x 610mm
I've been hijacking Kyo's Sphinx thread for a few weeks now, so I decided to just go ahead and spin this into a build. I'm in the process of building my first CNC, and after spending a few months eagerly researching designs, I fell in love with the Sphinx. The features I was looking for were:
Some of the mods I've made in my design (all untested so far):
- Flexible. First and foremost, this will be about learning. I need a frame that can be tweaked, disassembled, and reassembled easily (ie. OpenBuilds)
- Relatively small. I have an old, sorely neglected Nova and way too many tools crammed in my tiny two-car garage, and now I'll need to make room for a CNC. It has to be small.
- Inexpensive. This is a hobby and I honestly have no idea what I'll use it for. I also have no idea what I'm doing, so I don't want to drop too much money into something that I'll undoubtedly want to remix later. I'm expecting to spend $500 or so to get it operational, and then more over time tweaking it (spindle, dust collection, better controller, drivers, etc.). I actually kind of like looking for clever ways to save money (which inevitably end up costing twice as much).
- Rigid. This will primarily be used with wood, but I do want to be able to cut soft aluminum (slowly).
I'll talk about each of these in more detail below and eventually document how each turned out. Here's the current design as of this afternoon. I'm hoping to start building in a week or two:
- Increased the Y axis to 750mm. Normally I see people increase the X axis length, but I wanted to be able to put this on a small table and easily see what was going on. I can sit and watch my 3d printer for hours, and I suspect I'll be just as enamored watching this. The downside is that this increases the length of a single rail carrying a majority of the machine's weight. CBeam's are pretty beefy, though, and I've added an extra 20x40 rail underneath the CBeam to hopefully reduce flex and torque on the Z axis.
- On a stock Sphinx, roughly 170mm of the 500mm X axis is unusable. To reduce this, I've moved the Y axis up and back 40mm by adjusting the side plates. I'm also planning to use 3/8" plates vs. 1/4" to help with any flex this change might introduce and just generally add some rigidity.
- I haven't yet implemented this in my Fusion 360 design, but I plan to incorporate some limit switches into the plates. I'm hoping to go with inductive switches, but if I can't find room for them or get frustrated with the aesthetics, I'll fall back to micro switches.
- Instead of angle brackets, I'm going to make heavy use of blind joints. I used this technique on my 3d printer and was very happy with the results. I haven't been able to get a conclusive answer as to whether this significantly reduces the strength of the rail, though, so if anyone has any thoughts on that, I'd love to hear them ASAP (I'll start construction in a week or two).
- I'm printing my own V wheels and anti-backlash nuts.
- I'll make use of some other 3d printed parts to help reinforce and enhance the design. You can see an example in the endcaps found in the corners. I'll include any STLs here eventually.
- I'm hoping to anodize my plates to the orange color you see in the design. I've never done this, though, and it involves sulfuric acid so it could end badly.
3D Printed Wheels and Anti Backlash Nuts
I'll be frank (hopefully this doesn't get me banned). Openbuilds charges way too much for these wheels and bearings. You could easily spend 2x or 3x as much on a bunch of little plastic wheels as you do for 40lbs of aluminum rails.
My v-wheels are being printed using polycarbonate with a .05mm layer height and a .2mm nozzle. They're obviously not as strong or precise as what you buy, but I believe they will work.
Here's a shot showing two printed mini wheels. The back wheel was printed with .4mm nozzle and layer height. The quality of the left wheel was improved significantly by decreasing the layer height to .05.
The antibacklash nuts are printed in ABS and then tapped using a tap I made out of some scrap lead screw (props to Savvas for this technique).
Offsetting Plates to Reduce X Axis Waste
To reduce some of the unusable X axis in the stock Sphinx design, I've modified the gantry plates a little bit by moving the CBeam up and back 40mm increasing the cutting area slightly. I've also added holes for an additional 20x40 vrail which will be joined to the CBeam to hopefully add additional reinforcement. This will also have the added benefit of moving the wheels on the Z gantry plate further apart which should, I think, decrease torque slightly on the Z axis.
Here's the anticipated improvement to the cutting area:
And here's a shot showing the expecting impact (minor) on unusable space at the front of the machine:
Update from 5/1/2017 - Test Fit
Today was rainy and nasty, so I 3d printed all my plates, cut and tapped my aluminum, and did a test fit for the frame and X axis. So far, everything is going smoothly. The bad news is that my 3d printed wheels didn't work out. There was noticeable vibration compared to the openbuilds delron wheels. Too soon to say whether my backlash nuts will hold up over time, but so far they seem to be working well. I am a little worried that they will strip out eventually, though.
Update from 5/1/2017 - Models
I've had several people ask for models for the changes to the side plates, but I wanted to wait until I was able to test fit my changes. I haven't fully assembled the Z axis changes since I'm still waiting on a 20x40 rail, but I did print the models and verify that they assemble correctly. As always, though, your mileage may vary. Be warned that these are still *very experimental*.
In the models, I've included a reinforced and a non-reinforced version. The reinforced has an extra 20x40 rail below the Y access CBeam. I don't know that it's necessary, but I extended my Y access to about 740mm, and the extra rail is cheap ($13).
This requires slightly different side plates, and then taller Z access gantry plates. If you use the non-reinforced version, just use the standard Sphinx gantry plates.
One of the guys in my makerspace who owns a CNC has graciously offered to help me cut out my plates this week, so if all goes well I'll have some aluminum soon!
Update from 5/8/2017 - Assembled and Operational
I finished assembling using 3d plates and it's now fully functional. I haven't tried cutting anything yet, but it's drawing well (albeit slowly). I ordered a Makita 701c router and it should be here Wednesday. I'm going to try cutting some wood and MDF, and depending on how that goes, may go ahead and try cutting my plates out of aluminum.Here's a video of it running:
It seems really slow relative to other machines I've seen. The max feed rate is currently at 1000mm/min, but it really doesn't seem to be moving that quickly. My buddy has a shapeoko at 500mm/min and it's much quicker. I looked in the gcode and didn't see anything that was limiting speeds here. The total amp draw while all 3 axis are moving is around 1/2 an amp.
Update from 5/10/2017 - Anti Backlash Nuts and Makita Router Holder
I 3d printed my anti-backlash nuts out of ABS and they seem to be working fine, however, I was worried that they would strip out over time (or very quickly if I ever hit something solid). To help with this, I modified them to incorporate the brass nuts that came with my threaded rods. I only used one of these modified nuts per axis.
Also, my router should arrive today, so I went ahead and build a holder for it. I couldn't find a Makita version for the openbuilds double gantry plate I'm using. It feels solid, but if it looks like I'm getting deflection, I'll either try to make something out of aluminum, or just buy the openbuilds holder and make an adapter for it.
I'll throw all these parts on Thingiverse and/or upload them here later this week.
Update from 5/10/2017 - First cut!
All in all, it was a good day. I have a lot to learn, but I made good progress. Here's a video of me attempting an aluminum cut. It went surprisingly well, but ultimately failed because I don't have a good method of holding down the part. I don't have any doubt that I'll be able to cut my own plates once I get that resolved. I'm going to work on a wasteboard system next.
Update from 5/16/2017 - First Plate Cut
Well, this plate essentially cost me $70 (2 $25 bits + aluminum), but it was totally worth it. I never should have been using the expensive bits to learn, but I didn't have a 1/8" collet for my router and got impatient. Since then, I've found that the inexpensive 1/8" bits work fine at slow speeds. I may be doing something wrong, but they are significantly louder. I guess this is to be expected.
The most frustrating thing was that the tool breaks weren't while cutting. They were both caused by setup issues. One was prior to getting my limit switches installed and a bad home point. The other was caused by me setting my Z max speed too high and losing steps during a retract.
I'm sure I have many more painful lessons to learn, but I am starting to understand the process and it feels amazing when everything works the way you expect it to.
Update from 5/20/2017 - More Plates and Chamfer
I finished a couple more plates today for the X axis. Unfortunately I broke a couple more bits in the process, but they were the cheaper 1/8" end mills, so it was a little less painful.
I discovered that my 3d printed router mount is flexing way too much and is causing a lot of chatter if I get too aggressive. In a few cases, this has caused bit breakage. If I put pressure on the router, the chatter gets quieter. Guess I need to cut a holder out of aluminum or just break down and buy one.
I did my first chamfer today using a 1/4 spot bit. Worked well, but I got a little too aggressive with my depth and my speeds and got lots of chatter and some skipping. Next part I'll use a much less pronounced chamfer and slow it down.
My Z axis issue seems to be resolved, but I still need to finish my wasteboard so that I can get a more level cutting surface. There is some slight unevenness which is causing certain areas to take deeper cuts (especially w/ the chamfering).
Update from 5/22/2017 - Improved Makita Mount
I bulked up the design of my 3d printed Makita router mount significantly and it seems to be working much better. I'm getting zero chatter and have been able to increase my speeds significantly. I still need to get the mount choked up more closer to the router bit, but can't do that yet without moving my Z axis down. I've published the STL to thingiverse if anyone is interested.
Update from 5/26/2017 - Z Axis Upgrades
I haven't tested it yet, but based on a tip from Rick 2.0, I built and printed this new plate for the Z Axis late last night.It incorporates features from the Double Wide Gantry, and the XLarge gantry to allow for 4 internal mini wheels, and 6 large wheels on the outside. I'm hoping it will reduce slop a little bit on the Z axis. I've had issues with the mini wheels loosening up over time and they are a pain to retighten. This is less of a factor, but it's also a little shorter which should increase Z range a bit.
I'll do a test fit tonight and if all goes well, will try cutting it out tomorrow in aluminum.
Salmon Sphinx 1.0
A tribute build based on Kyo's wonderful CBeam Sphinx. My hope is to improve on that build slightly, but to be honest, I'll probably just screw it up. I'll use this build to publicly document my failures.
- Build License:
- CC - Attribution Share Alike - CC BY SA
Reason for this BuildThis is my first CNC and the goal of this build is to learn and make mistakes. I'll be tweaking Kyo's design slightly, and will undoubtedly end up with a machine that won't cut burnt toast.
Inspired byPrimarily Kyo's CBeam Sphinx, which is modeled after the original CBeam